
Gooooooood Morning SuperForest!
Yesterday I awoke with a bit of a head cold, and moped about the house drinking lemon ginger tea. My beloved brother, SuperForester Will, suggested the only proper way to treat a cold: surfing!
This morning my alarm went off at 6:45 AM and I hit snooze and lay back down, only to find Will hovering over me with hot coffee. Bless his heart! We jumped in the car and 45 minutes later we were in Malibu, where we found waves aplenty.
Since this side of the Pacific ocean is quite cold, we had to wear thick wetsuits to keep our body heat in. To be comfortable it helps to be naked under the suit, so you want to get into it as quickly as you can, as the morning breeze is quite chilly. I wore a wetsuit top under my fullsuit for added warmth, plus gloves and one bootie. Will wore the other bootie.
We paddled out into the glorious Pacific, and I was delighted to find the water clean and sparkling. No trash, no doodies, just clean, salty ocean water. We were sitting outside the break, looking out to the ocean to see the incoming waves, when a pod of dolphins broke the surface! They had come by to check us out, or perhaps just chase a fish past us. It was nice that my dolphin-to-trash-in-the-water ratio leaned so heavily towards dolphin. Lots of dolphins, very little trash.
The common cold is called the rhinovirus, which I assume means that it lives in your nose. I believe that surfing is beneficial to curing the rhinovirus as the exercise aspect stimulates white blood cell production and immune response, while a lot of salt water is helpfully squirted up your nose by the incoming waves. Once in your nose and sinuses, the saltwater leaps into action like Bruce Lee, using nunchuks and spinning kicks to smack the rhinovirus right in its mean old face.

Often, a good hard blow of the nose, (one nostril at a time) is enough to send what looks like the “mother colony” of bacteria flying out of your head and into the water to be eaten by fish. Gross.
But then you start to feel better, and the healing process continues.
While surfing today I underestimated where a wave was going to break, and when I tried to push my board under water and dive under the wave I got sucked into it and spun around. I lost my board really fast and had no leash, so the board was gone and I was underwater and thrashing about. For a few moments, I panicked and struggled.
Then the retraining kicked in and my body went limp. The wave let go of me and I was able to kick to the surface. All thanks to the conscious retraining of my natural human instincts. When you are being thrashed around underwater, it makes sense for your body to get upset and instinctively try to get you back to the surface. In this case, your instincts work against you. By letting yourself go limp, the wave has no power over you. Only by retraining my mind was I able to adapt to this force in a beneficial way.
I always feel so good and loose after a few hours of surfing. No aggression or frustration. Clear head and happy body.
Love to All,
Jackson
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